Archive for the 'eating out' Category

On making a living as a food writer

misty beach 2 585x453 On making a living as a food writer

Every time I come out here, life pulls into sharper focus – it becomes more clear what I want to do and why I want to do it – why it’s important – and then I go home and it kind of collapses into the day to day minutae. One of the things I always seem to struggle with is how to make a living – while maintaining my integrity. I know I’m not the only one.

So here I am in the midst of a blog redesign – still, because for years I’ve been trying to figure out how to do things better, what the right next step is, how to stand out from all the sameness yet maintain familiarity, worried that if I do take a sudden jag, people will lose interest. (And if they do, isn’t it my own fault for being boring?) As always, my blog keeps getting back-burnered for actual work deadlines – I have to answer to editors, publishers and producers, not so much to myself.

But I’ve finally (!!) hired someone to do it. It’s anxiety-inducing to choose someone to come up with a design that defines you, and to tinker with the back end so that you don’t lose all your stuff. But I’m struggling myself to determine what kind of content I want to produce that people will care about – and how to organize it all, and are blogs really dying? But even if they are, from now on and forever people will always get recipes from the internet, right? Until something comes along to replace the internet? This is why I’ve asked for advice from friends and readers, because they see it all from an audience perspective, and really are the only ones who matter. But one recurring comment makes me bristle each time I hear it: No ads!

And I get it, I do. I don’t love ads – least of all the ones that pop up when you open a page, or blare weight loss promises with distasteful images, and I don’t like the look of blogs that have dedicated every square inch of space to Google Ads either.

But. I’m a food writer. It’s what I do – it’s my job. I’ve wanted to be a food writer for as long as I can remember – since telling my grade 3 class I wanted to be the food editor of Canadian Living when I grew up. I love doing it, and would love nothing more than to be independently wealthy or financially supported enough to be able to write about whatever inspires me that day or week rather than what I’m assigned that pays the bills. Because this work -and Mike works with me- pays our bills. I’ve never relied on my blog to pay the bills, but here’s the thing: it costs me $3000/year for web hosting – I pay extra to have a dedicated server so that it loads more quickly – and I’m paying $6500 to do this redesign. So that’s $10k so far this year that I’m forking out to just keep this blog out there, which I’m happy to do, but I don’t think it should mean compromising my integrity to offset some of those costs.

As it stands, the only ways to do that – by selling ad space or creating sponsored content – are frowned upon by many. (And it seems to be more so in the food blogging world than in fashion, travel or design blogging.) In the past, content like this could only reach the masses through traditional means – recipes and photos and essays and kitchen tips were only available in newspapers, magazines and cookbooks – all of which you’d have to pay for, and most of which also ran ads because subscription revenue is never enough. You don’t hear complaints about Bon Appetit or Lucky Peach running ads. No one thinks less of me when I get paid to write stories for print magazines (which themselves run ads and charge for issues), and if I were to bind all these recipes and photos together in a book, print copies and charge $40, it’s considered a (huge!) success, not a sellout.

Create custom content – sponsored posts – and you risk being labeled a shill. Of losing your integrity in some peoples’ eyes. (And this makes sense from a journalistic standpoint – a professional journalists’ code of ethics stresses autonomy, but most have staff jobs and salaries so that never the two shall meet. But what about being wined and dined by restaurants, PR agencies and tourism boards? And of course the publication itself still has advertisers to keep happy. There are so many grey areas these days.) Sponsored content has become the way to do things in the advertising world – I don’t think I write for a single print publication that doesn’t offer custom content, or native content, or whatever term they’ve come up with to distinguish advertorial from editorial. Buzzfeed is often held up as the standard to which we all should aspire – a digital magazine with an entire team dedicated to creating custom content for their advertisers in much the same way ad agencies do, in a way that fits with their own publication.

I vacillate between thinking that carefully curated box and banner ads are the most inoffensive – people are used to seeing them and blocking them out, right? although those who work with ad networks say it’s becoming impossible to make a living that way anymore anyway – and sponsored posts, which I reason at least provides the opportunity to produce content in my own voice that I think might have some value to my readers. But these days a lot of people feel deceived by sponsored posts, and again the writer loses credibility.

So traditional print media outlets are starting to fold, largely due to lack of advertising. (Where are all those ad dollars going? Digital has finally surpassed print, TV and radio in terms of ad spending – but my understanding is that it’s mostly going to Facebook and Google.) That means big staff cuts, slashed freelance budgets, editors getting back into the freelancing pool, and overall fewer publications to write for. (If Gourmet can’t make it..?) Online publications generally pay a tiny percentage of what print magazines do, and there are often those willing to write for free, or almost, for exposure (something I’m not against). Of course the concept of working “for exposure” goes beyond writing; at my first home show appearances in 2002 I was paid $2500; nowadays a few celebs are paid as a draw – the rest come on their own dime, and some chefs actually pay to participate as a promotional opportunity. I guess my point is, even the option of subsidizing your blog with columns, other paying gigs and cookbook royalties (a few dollars per book) is more difficult than it used to be. (Maybe it’s my own fault for not being a self-promoter – which is a big part of the game these days – my new web guy was shocked to hear that I have 7 cookbooks and don’t promote or sell them on my own website. But that’s just me.)

As usual I have more questions than answers, and I often think the solution is – or comes from – better understanding. What do you think about it all? I’m going to the beach.

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March 24 2015 | eating out | 87 Comments »

Road Food: Jasper

Jasper 585x442 Road Food: Jasper

I head up to Jasper at least once a year – I’ve been going for Christmas in November for the past 13 years – and because I’m typically eating and drinking at the Fairmont JPL, I rarely have an excuse to check out the town beyond gassing up. This weekend there was a little more wiggle room, and we decided to stay for an extra day to exhale before hitting the coast and to do a bit of a Jasper walkabout. People kept asking me where to eat in Jasper and the truth was, I had no idea.

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Jasper is a ski town in the Athabasca river valley, small and beautiful and full of gift shops, anchored by a railway station and often populated by herds of elk. There’s an Earls and a Famoso pizza and a Tim Horton’s, the requisite tourist-stop candy store and an easy to find grocery store on the main drag. But some poking around and asking those in the know turned up a few spots I’m happy to know are there – not least of all, we found the good coffee.

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The Snow Dome on Patricia Street is a coffee shop inside the (environmental award winning) Coin Clean laundromat, down below street level – an excellent combo if there ever was one, especially in a town with so many young visitors.

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As you come in the door, there’s a tiny counter behind which they brew Fratello beans from Calgary (in a Slayer machine!), and in their tiny onsite kitchen bake muffins, banana bread, warden cookies and other tasty things to serve alongside; there are a few tables and chairs and a makeshift living room complete with couches right next to the rows of washing machines for some serious laid-back multitasking. You can at least pretend you’re getting laundry done while sitting back and sipping a cappuccino.

Bears Paw bakery 1 585x444 Road Food: Jasper

As Mike will attest, I love seeking out bakeries in any city/town/villa I manage to visit, and Bear’s Paw Bakery was just the sort of place I expected in a mountain town – kitchy and homey, with a screen door that slaps shut behind you, lots of wood (display cases, trim, signs, countertops), and plenty of home baking – apple pies! carrot cakes! muffins and scones and grainy breads, and old-school squares like date and those peanut butter-marshmallow ones I’m a total sucker for. Surprisingly, a good muffin is hard to find. Not here.

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Cocos Café came highly recommended, and I was happy to find them brewing Phil & Sebastian beans. They specialize in vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free, but have some serious glutinous baked goods on the menu and know how to stack a Montreal smoked meat sandwich at the same time.

Coco Cafe 1 585x392 Road Food: Jasper

The space is small and cozy, with a walk-up counter and a single table out front; the menu is interesting, and largely local – with things like homemade elk and Saskatoon berry sausage rolls and and extensive all-day breakfast. (A good thing when you’re on the road, and breakfast could be required at any time.)

cocos 585x393 Road Food: Jasper

Twitter enthusiastically recommended The Raven Bistro, which was closed when we went by (but the menu looked amazing), and Evil Dave’s, a large, tinted windowed, locally-owned restaurant on a busy corner, serving up some fairly classic family-friendly meals – had we not had a 100 lb dog in tow I would have gone in and ordered the Alberta bison and wild boar bacon meatloaf.

IMG 9462 585x439 Road Food: Jasper

But as it turned out, we did have Lou with us this time, and when I stopped at the dollar store to pick him up some makeshift legwarmers for the 80s party (purple argyle socks with the toes cut off that made him a hit with the Sunday bruch crowd), the cashier tipped me off to her favourite pizza place, where we could walk in and order a couple wood-fired oven pizzas to take out and bring back to our hotel room, to eat by the fire with the hockey game on.

Jasper Pizza 585x398 Road Food: Jasper

Sometimes, with kids and dogs in tow, this is the best kind of food to find.

Do you know Jasper? I’d love to get the inside scoop on what you like to eat there.

I love showing off my home province – thanks to Travel Alberta for helping me do it! As always, words and opinions are my own.

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button print gry20 Road Food: Jasper

March 19 2015 | eating out | 3 Comments »

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