Archive for the 'preserves' Category

Crabapple Jelly

apple plum jelly 2

There is a common misconception that crabapples aren’t good for much, merely because their size prohibits easy peeling and coring. And their name characterizes them unfairly.

(W used to call them “crap apples”.)

apples & plums

But in reality, having all the flavour and tartness of a full apple packed into such a condensed space is a good thing; and the fact that they are ripe and ready right at harvest time can’t be a coincidence. Loaded with flavour and pectin (especially the cores, so you don’t want to core them anyway), crabapples are delicious insurance that your jams and jellies will set, without buying and upending a packet of powdered stuff into your pot. Apple is delicious with berries, plums, or any other fruits you want to toss in – but there’s nothing wrong with straight-up crabapple, either.

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I happened to be gifted with a bucket of equally tart and tiny plums – crabplums – which were equally impossible to pit. And so they joined the party – a potful, covered with water, simmered until sludgy, then strained through a colander (or cheesecloth if you want a clearer jelly) and brought to a boil with sugar. You don’t need a particular quantity of crabapples – just whatever you manage to shake from your tree. And have a bag of sugar on hand.

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People use jelly bags (or make them) to create a slow drip of pure, clear juice for their jellies – the rule is to not push or otherwise disrupt the solids, which will produce a cloudy (gasp!) jelly. I don’t particularly mind this, and tend to swish the apple mash around in the strainer to extract as much as possible. It’s lovely and pink. If you have a second pot, you can straight it directly into it.

What makes people most nervous about jam and jelly making is the setting. There are a few ways to go about this – you could boil it to 220F on a candy thermometer, or test it for the gelling stage by dripping some onto a plate in the freezer and pushing it with your finger to see if it wrinkles. My candy thermometer is packed away somewhere, and so I took the wait-and-see approach, and cooked it until it went from looking like bubbling juice to bubbling jam. The bubbles are thicker and slower, and the foam that rises to the surface turns dense and almost clumpy – don’t skim it off right away; it’s a good indicator that your jelly is done. When you pour it into jars, the surface will start to cool – pushing it with a spoon produces the same wrinkled effect you get by using your finger and a cold plate. You can see it starting to gel.

apple plum jelly 1

I don’t bother with the pressure canning process – jellies like this keep well in the fridge for months, and rather than push them to the back to be forgotten until next spring, when I decide it might be a good idea to clean out the fridge, I give away the surplus.

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And if your jelly doesn’t set, just call it crabapple syrup – to drizzle over ice cream or cakes or into cocktails or tea – and it will still be delicious.

Crabapple Jelly

If you like, put a cinnamon stick or sprig of rosemary into your jars before pouring in the hot jelly.

lemon juice

Wash, stem and halve or quarter the apples into a large pot. (Don’t bother to peel or core them.) Add a few handfuls of black currants or cranberries or a few pitted and quartered plums, if you like. Add enough water to just cover them and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 20-30 minutes, until the apples are very soft.

Pour into a strainer or colander lined with cheesecloth (or use a jelly bag if you have one) set over a large bowl or pot, and let the juice drain out. Stir the pulp around a bit if you want to hurry it up – but any poking or prodding will result in a cloudy jelly. I don’t mind this, but you might. That’s cool.

Measure the resulting juice into a pot (this is easy if you drain it into a pot with measurements marked on the side) and add 3/4 cup sugar for every cup of juice. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil rapidly, stirring often, until the mixture reaches 220°F on a candy thermometer, or until a small amount placed on a cold plate and put into the freezer wrinkles when you poke at it with your finger. This should take about 20 minutes.

While it’s still hot, pour the jelly into clean, hot jars, skim off any foam that rises to the top with a spoon, and seal with lids. Set aside to cool. (I find that if I use hot jelly and hot jars, straight from the dishwasher, they seal properly and I can store them for a long time, but this is not proper advice – so feel free to follow proper canning instructions.)

Makes as many jars as you like.

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October 08 2014 | preserves | 14 Comments »

Honey Balsamic Roasted Cherries

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Just when I thought straight-up cherries by the handful couldn’t be improved upon.


Applying heat to just about anything – but particularly juicy fruit – makes it better.

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You can roast cherries, of course. They get along well with balsamic vinegar, and a sprig or two of fresh rosemary, and a good grinding of black pepper. And the heat of the oven until the slump over and into each other, and give up their juices, which then caramelize on the parchment papered-pan.

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The whole thing takes about fifteen minutes, and then you can pour the warm cherries and their tangy juices over a log of soft goat cheese and bring it out onto the deck with a bottle of wine. Yes?

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Or cool them down and spoon them over thick yogurt and granola in the morning with your coffee. Either way. I imagine the combo would also do well over ice cream, or whirled into a milkshake.

roasted cherries 1

Honey Balsamic Roasted Cherries

fresh cherries, pitted
balsamic vinegar
extra-virgin olive oil
a sprig of fresh rosemary (optional)
freshly ground black pepper (optional)

Preheat the oven to 400F. Spread the cherries out in a single layer on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Whisk together equal amounts of honey and balsamic vinegar with about half as much oil (about 1/4 cup honey and balsamic and 2 Tbsp. oil for 1 L cherries) and pour over the cherries. Add a sprig of rosemary, if you like, and toss to coat. Grind over a bit of black pepper.

Roast for 10-20 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the cherries soften and release their juices and everything gets dark and sticky. Serve warm, over ice cream or a soft log of goat cheese, on a cheese board or good bread, or over thick plain yogurt and granola.

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July 29 2014 | dessert and preserves | 13 Comments »

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