Curried Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Paneer

Brussels sprouts and paneer 1

As per my previous post, I’m currently enamoured with all things curried – and with using my masala dabba, which when I hold in my hand and dip into by the stove makes me feel like part cook, part abstract painter, and which turns out curries I didn’t realize I was capable of.

Also? I must have curry on the mind because this very weekend I’m flying to London to go to lunch at Fifteen and MEET JAMIE OLIVER. My apologies if I drive everyone crazy with my Jamiepalooza this coming Monday. (Also? I have a 5-10 minute Q&A with him – what do you want to know??)

All of which is to say I couldn’t resist another curry – I’m not even going to apologize for it, because this particular one is made with Brussels sprouts, bacon and paneer. If you’re a frequenter of Indian restaurants you may recognize peas and paneer, or spinach and paneer, but this. It’s dense and chewy and crunchy and soft, and I’d never think to add bacon to the mix, but it’s brilliant. I flipped by it in one of Vij’s books while looking for an interesting thing to do with the paneer I just made, and then kind of winged it, not really following the recipe exactly, shredding the B. sprouts rather than quartering them, and not bothering to add water, so it’s thicker and more intense.

Brussels sprouts and paneer 2

Paneer, if you’re not familiar with it, is a fresh curd cheese – common in Indian cooking, but essentially the same thing as ricotta – you can make it (easily!) by adding an acid like lemon juice or vinegar to warmed milk, making it split into curds and whey. You scoop out the curds into a piece of cheesecloth, sprinkle it with a bit of salt, then weigh it down under a plate to press out as much whey as possible, making it firm enough to cut into chunks. Honestly, I could nibble on squares of homemade paneer all day.

Curried Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Paneer

6-8 slices bacon, chopped
1 tsp. whole cumin seeds
canola oil, for cooking, if you need it
1 lb Brussels sprouts
1 14 oz (398 mL) can pureed tomatoes
1 Tbsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. cumin
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1/4 tsp. salt
pinch cayenne
1/2 lb paneer, cut into 1-inch cubes

Cook the bacon in a skillet set over medium-high heat until crisp; remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate, leaving the drippings.

Toast the cumin seeds for a minute in the drippings in the pan – add a little oil if you like – and then add the Brussels sprouts, cooking until they’re soft and starting to brown a bit on the edges.

Add the tomatoes, coriander, cumin, turmeric, salt and cayenne and cook until bubbling and thick; tuck in the paneer and cook for another minute, coating the cheese with the tomato sauce, until everything is heated through and looking like exactly what you want to eat. (Vij instructs to pour the sauce over the paneer, if you want to serve it that way.)

Serves 4. (Or 2 for lunch.)

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May 14 2015 | cheese and vegetarian | 8 Comments »

Halibut Curry

halibut curry 2

I’ve never been to India, but I consider myself a curry enthusiast.

And I’m fascinated by Indian cuisine. A month or so I spent some time in the kitchen with Mrs. Nimji, an eightysomething neighbour (of sorts) who just happens to have self-published what is now considered the bible of Ismaili cooking, having sold somewhere in the neighbourhood of a quarter million copies. I loved just being in the kitchen with her, watching how she toasted her spices and snipped her almonds in the button-up housedress she used as a full body apron, keeping her outfit immaculate underneath.

halibut curry 3

She gifted me a jar of her own garam masala and my own masala dabba, a round tin filled with smaller round tins filled with spices, which is like the Indian version of an artists’ palatte. I’ve had it on my countertop, admiring it but not quite ready to delve into it until this weekend, when I got to hang with one Vikram Vij, who y’all may know from his restaurant in Vancouver, and perhaps a few other things. Over dinner he told stories of his start in 1989 in the kitchens at the Fairmont Banff Springs, having just arrived in Canada from his home in Delhi and Mumbai, after his chef’s training in Austria. And of how when he opened up his restaurant in Vancouver in the early nineties, his mother would make pots of her curry and take it on the bus in her lap down to the restaurant, just to be sure it was exactly right. There are no better stories than these.

Vikram & Me

(He was in Banff helping to celebrate the opening of a new seasonal restaurant called Indian Summer, which is taking over one of the best spaces in the hotel – the upper Rundle Lounge, where Mike and I used to go with W in his carrier and order cocktails mostly for the bowls of warm cashews and stunning mountain views that came with them. As of now it’s being transformed into a restaurant with two recipes created by Vikram and the rest in collaboration with the Fairmont chefs, complete with homemade chutneys and raita and naan, which will be served all summer long.)

Vikram Collage

On Friday afternoon Vikram cooked his family’s chicken curry, and another with goat and fenugreek and lamb, and talked about the importance of the spices and how it’s not just the quality and variety that makes a difference, but the order in which they go into the pot. He likes to cook the hell out of his onions, deglaze the pan with tomatoes, and finish everything off with a good lob of sour cream and some water – sour cream holds up to the heat and the acid far better than yogurt, which can separate and look curdled. Heavy cream works too.

Curry Collage>

Within ten minutes of getting home, I pulled out my masala dabba and started cooking. We had a hunk of roasted halibut left over in the fridge – what I love about curries is that you can make them out of anything, including wrinkly veggies or a can of chickpeas, or bulk them up with a diced potato.

Halibut curry Collage 1

I started by cooking the hell out of my onions, then layering the spices, chiles, ginger and garlic – it’s not complicated, but the compilation of ingredients makes all the difference. Both Vikram and Mrs. Nimji use a lot of oil – more than I could bring myself to – and really, you could use chicken or fish or beef or shrimp or even chickpeas or lentils here, and it would be delicious.

halibut curry 1

Halibut Curry

canola oil, for cooking
2 onions, finely chopped
1 cinnamon stick
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2 Tbsp. chopped ginger
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
2 large chopped tomatoes
2 tsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. garam masala
1 tsp. turmeric
1/4 tsp. ground cayenne pepper or chili flakes
2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2-1 cup sour cream, stirred
1 cup water
1-2 lb halibut, cut into chunks (or leftover roasted halibut)
1/2 cup chopped cilantro (including stems)

Drizzle a generous amount of oil into a large, heavy skillet set over medium-high heat and sauté the onions with the cinnamon stick for 4-5 minutes, until turning golden. Add the garlic, ginger and jalapeno and cook for another few minutes. Add the tomatoes, cumin, coriander, garam masala, turmeric, cayenne, salt and pepper and cook, stirring often, for 5 more minutes, until the tomatoes break down and everything smells fragrant.

Add the sour cream and water and stir until well blended, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. When it comes to a simmer, nestle the halibut chunks into the mixture and cook for a few minutes, turning as the fish cooks through, firming up and separating a little into flakes. Cook until the mixture thickens a bit, then remove the cinnamon stick and add the cilantro.

Serve immediately, or let cool and gently reheat later. Serves 4-6.

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May 10 2015 | one dish and seafood | 5 Comments »

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